Straker’s And The City: Are We Critics?

As I took my seat – a high stool on the side of the bar – in the dimly lit restaurant, I couldn’t help but wonder: was this the climax of the London food scene?

Perched in a setting that wouldn’t look out of place in an episode of Sex And The City, I had somehow secured the hottest meal ticket in town. It was a Friday night and I was at Straker’s – London’s current trendiest restaurant – perhaps second only to Mountain in Soho. The reason I was there was pure happenstance: I had been the lucky winner of an Instagram competition for a free dinner for two.

Straker’s is the first restaurant opened by Thomas Straker – of Mob Kitchen and butter fame. Known for producing “food you want to eat” on his Instagram, Straker offers seasonal contemporary cuisine in a classic culinary tradition. His restaurant on Goldborne Road is described as offering a “neighbourhood vibe” that has helped to cement it as a must-visit among the foodie glitterati of West London.

The space was narrow, with diners packed into slim bar seating and intimate tables that helped to further the restaurant’s image of being among the most bustling and in-demand in the city. Between the thumping beats of the restaurant’s house-y playlist and the raucous conversations of the loud and stylish Americans scattered throughout the restaurant, it really did feel as though Carrie Bradshaw herself would emerge from the candlelit bathroom at any moment.

Had I been paying for everything, I would’ve felt short-changed at being sat at the bar. For the price of the cocktails alone – averaging around £16 a pop – I don’t want to be clambering up a barstool with one hand tugging at my hemline. It’s even harder to maintain an air of Notting Hill chic when you have to make the descent back down every time you want to go to the loo.

Pricey as the cocktails may be, I can’t fault them or the bartender. He was warm, conversational and accomodating, without being encroaching. Maybe it was the tequila shots we found ourselves sinking with him, or maybe it was the bottle of wine, but by the end of the evening, I felt as though we had built quite a rapport with him and the other servers. In fact, the service was faultless: helpful, knowledgeable and hospitable without being pretentious. With a few hitches to the competition details – a miscommunication and nothing to do with the restaurant – they made sure that we had a wonderful evening with them. If nothing else, Straker’s knows how to provide first-class service.

With carte blanche to order whatever dishes we fancied, we started with one of their famous flatbreads. Simple and well-executed, it’s no surprise that the Straker’s flatbreads are a fan favourite. Ours came dripping in a zesty garlic butter, delicate chanterelle mushrooms and lashings of parmesan. The charred and crispy crust was harmonious with the fluffy richness of the buttery middle. It was among one of the best mouthfuls of the night.

Alongside, we ordered the scallop. And I really do mean, the scallop. When the solitary shellfish was placed in front of us, my friend and I looked at each other with raised brows. While I couldn’t fault it on flavour or execution, £20+ for one unremarkable scallop basted in butter felt like a slap in the face, especially when sat atop a comically large nest of seaweed garnish. If I hadn’t been already, I was now sincerely glad that I wasn’t paying.

Delica pumpkin – London’s gourd du jour – of course had to make an appearance on this trendy seasonal menu. These fritti were served with a deliciously spicy and tangy dill mayo and seasoned with what I can only describe as chai spices. The combination of the sweet pumpkin and cinnamon wasn’t unpleasant, but it was confusing as a starter. The mayonnaise paired with the light and crispy batter of the fritti was the textural combination you would have hoped for. The flavours of a Starbucks pumpkin spiced latte, however, were not.

Another Straker’s stalwart is the potato galettes. While they were highly recommended, I failed to see the appeal. When they arrived, I couldn’t wait to tuck into the inviting slices of no doubt crispy and unctuous potato, with luxurious layers of fluff cradled in crunch. In reality, it felt like a mouthful of Walker’s ready salted. The only saving grace was the mayo, which offered some variation of texture and flavour. They weren’t unpleasant, just uninspiring and offering nothing but brittle crunch all the way down. They were the only plate we didn’t finish.

If we had been playing London Restaurant Cliché Bingo, this plate would’ve been a big scorer. Braised ox cheek? Dab. Creamy polenta? Dab. Bitter leaves? That’s-a-bingo!

I mock, but the joke is on me because I will always order the ox cheek. This one was no exception. The meat was meltingly tender and rich with umami. The polenta, while a meagre portion, was velvety smooth and creamy. On a cold January evening, it was exactly what I had been craving and was surprisingly light for something so packed with flavour.

The undisputed best dish of the night was the dover sole. On another occasion, I’m not sure I would shell out the £74 but, having now tasted it, I would be sad to miss out on what was the best piece of fish I have ever eaten in my life. Swimming in caper butter and lemon juice, each bite was a dalliance with the divine. No one flavour overpowered the other: it was a perfect marriage of the fatty and the delicate, the tart and the sweet, the crispy and the succulent. This one piece of white fish has left an indelible mark on my palette that won’t soon be forgotten.

Accompanied by a side of chilli purple sprouting broccoli, this crown jewel marked the end of our feast.

And just like that, the evening came to a close with a paloma sour – a personal recommendation from our new friend. As the diners began to trickle out of the restaurant, and the staff began to close another busy Friday night service, I couldn’t help but wonder: is Straker’s worthy of its reputation?

While the price tag is hefty and the vibes are derivative, the food is undoubtedly delicious and the staff are wonderful. I wouldn’t say it stands out in a scene of similar concepts, but I would say it does what it does well. If you find yourself with cash to burn or as a competition winner, just make sure you order the dover sole.