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Karim Sayegh

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5 Places You’ll Love Visiting in the Old Village of Sawfar | A Journey into the Lavish Past of Mount Lebanon
March 3, 2021
As you crawl up the Damascus highway from Beirut, a 30 minute ride separates you from an abandoned hidden gem embedded in the heart of the mountain, the old village of Sawfar. Overlooking the mystical mountains of the Metn region and the Hammana Lamartine valley, it stands almost midways between the coast of Lebanon and the Syrian borders giving it a strategic location. At an altitude of 1300m above sea level, Sawfar has always been a well-known touristic destination for Arab visitors escaping the heat of the desert in the summer, enjoying the luxury of its stone villas, hotels and breath-taking scenery.
Known for its heavy snowstorms and chilly nights, Sawfar is almost a ghost town in winter. It is probably named after the whistling wind for that reason.
Sawfar is an indispensable destination for fans of urban exploration, photography, local history or simply those who enjoy beautiful scenery. Below are some of the best activities in Sawfar that are guaranteed to make it a worthwhile visit.

Take a look at the Old Railway Station:

One of the most remarkable milestones in the history of Lebanon and the Middle East, the railway station stands as a monument. It was built by the Ottomans in 1880 and since then Sawfar and the region began to flourish under its influence. This station lies on the old railway that once connected Beirut and Houran passing through the Bekaa Valley.
Engulfed with greenery the station overlooks the Lamartine valley making it the prefect attraction for photographers and history enthusiasts. Visiting the railway station at Sawfar reminds you of the forgotten pleasant side of Lebanon and its rich culture. You can’t pass through the village without noticing the railway.
 Visit Sursock’s Nostalgic Donna Maria Residence:
Wrecked and looted during the civil war of 1975, the nearly abandoned villa still receives many visitors who seek to hold wedding and graduation photo sessions within the stone walls of its garden. Entrance to the villa is totally free unless you are willing to rent it as a venue for celebrations or wedding events. It is also a great destination for urban exploration, especially if you have a nostalgic anima. You are going to be captivated by its arched façade and sophisticated architecture!

Walk through the chambers of the Majestic Grand Hotel:

It once housed Lebanon’s first casino. As you walk through the halls of the wrecked Grand Hotel of Sawfar you can almost feel the swaying spirits of exotic dancers and hear the hysterical laughter of drunken gamblers break the silence of oblivion. Exploring the rooms of this elaborate building feels like a trip into the hedonistic past of Lebanon’s golden age.
Also constructed by the Sursock family in 1890 – an architectural wonder of its day, it is located across the railway station making it a retreat for rich artists and history’s most influential figures.
As you walk in the bar and kitchen of the hotel, you can still see the old glassware used to serve visitors when business was at its peak. Who knows? Maybe you’ll find a cup General Catroux or Edward Spears sipped coffee from while negotiating the independence of Lebanon.
Even though the hotel lies in ruins nowadays, it is always ready to receive artists who would like to show their work as an art reception venue.
For an urban explorer who would like to delve into an overwhelming experience, climbing up the aged stairway to the roof for an aerial view of the village can’t be missed.

Feast on the Terrace of Al Tholouj Restaurant:

Rambling through the stone houses, you will need to replenish your energy because the journey is far from over. Al Tholouj restaurant – one of few – offers an astounding view of the Lamartine valley and the famous promenade to feast your eyes and mouth! They offer an international menu as well as several exquisite Lebanese dishes. 
When you’re not up to a heavy meal, small bakeries offer an array of the tastiest Lebanese pastries around town. The hospitable villagers of Sawfar always welcome you with a broad smile and a warm heart.

Take the famous Lovers’ Road of Sawfar:

The most known facet of the village, the corniche is a long avenue stretching through the town of Sawfar, adorned with ornate stone villas and mansions. It is the perfect place for a walk probably after a heavy meal with loved ones. The route is very convenient for cycling or walking a dog too! But try to avoid it at night if you mind being disturbed.
Sawfar’s boulevard is my favourite place there in all seasons. I can dash through the mist under a snow dressed tree-line in winter; surround myself with a refreshing atmosphere of heavenly greenery in spring, while in autumn I’m flooded with a warm spectrum of fiery colours that are so satisfying for the eye and camera lens. Below the jostling leaves, the sky exhibits a magical view of the sunset above Lamartine. When in luck, I might be able to capture the sun sinking under a carpet of clouds on days when the summer fog fails to reach the high peaks of this dreamy village. Witnessing this, I feel like I’m on top of the world!
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