Finger Coiling vs. Brush Styling

Achieving optimum curl definition is something every curly-haired person strives for, and there are several techniques to help you get there. There's no right or wrong way, but there are popular methods, and two of the most popular methods are brush styling versus finger coiling.

But which method will help you achieve the most defined curls? And if you were pushed to make the decision, which one would you choose?

Finger coiling or curling is when you twirl your hair around your fingers. This technique makes sure that each section of hair is defined by manually shaping each curl to create uniform spirals. Essentially, you're enhancing your natural curl pattern - so if your natural curls form an S shape, finger coiling transforms them into tighter, more defined spring-like spirals.

So what are the pros and cons of finger coiling?

Pros:

Enhanced curl definition

Keeps its shape for days without frizzing up

Low maintenance style

Cons:

Can take a long time to do a whole head of hair (at least an hour for me, and even for some with a lot of hair it can take them 2 hours to finger coil)

More shrinkage than most other styling methods

Requires practice

Brush styling, on the other hand, uses tools like the beloved Denman brush or maybe the new Scrunch It Brush to encourage your hair's natural curl pattern. Rather than creating new curl shapes, this method works by smoothing the hair cuticle and grouping strands together to form defined curl clumps. The brush helps eliminate frizz whilst maintaining your hair's natural texture and movement, though it can manipulate your curls in the process.

But what about the advantages and disadvantages of brush styling?

Pros:

Much quicker method than finger coiling

Can be completed in 10-15 minutes

Great for busy mornings

Cons:

Not easy to use - I rarely get perfect curls with a Bounce Curl brush, but I think that's mostly user error

Gives you a crazy amount of shrinkage, more than you would get without manipulating your curls and more than finger coiling

Can create slightly more frizz than finger coiling

Might be more damaging than finger coiling, as it puts stress on the cuticle due to the tension

Start with damp or soaking hair, use a spray bottle filled with water, and apply your favourite leave-in conditioner all over.

Then use crocodile clips or a few trusty scrunchies and put your hair into four large sections.

Use cream or hair gel. I suggest the Kurl Kitchen Cream for definition, or if you prefer a gel, the Curl Bites Mega Definition Strong Hold Gel.

Take pencil-width sections and wrap each piece around your finger from root to tip and then gently release. Remember to always coil in the direction your hair naturally curls.

Finger coiling can be done either starting from the root to the tip (as above) or the tip to the root, depending on desired results and your curl hair type. The key is consistency - the same tension, the same direction, every time. Don't worry if your sections aren't perfect or if your curls aren't all the same size.

Brush styling should be done on very damp or soaking wet hair—doing it on dry or lightly damp hair can cause frizz. Make sure your styling products (like the ones we recommended earlier) are already applied to wet hair before you begin.

Section your hair and brush through from root to tip

Scrunch upwards to encourage curl formation (but only do this if your hair has been thoroughly detangled prior, from tip to root).

Focus on creating those natural curl clumps rather than individual spirals.

For me, I prefer the results of finger coiling, but I'll be honest, it actually takes forever. So if you don't have the time and are in more of a rush, I would suggest brush styling, which can be done in 10-15 minutes.

Consider your time constraints first. Finger coiling can take 30-60 minutes or more, depending on your hair length and thickness, whilst brush styling can be done in 10-15 minutes. But for me, brush styling makes my curls slightly more frizzy, so I'll have to finger coil those strands of hair.

That being said, if you want a more natural, effortless look, brush styling is great, whilst finger coiling offers precision and uniformity.

Want to explore more curl care tips and product recommendations? Check out our blog for expert advice on achieving your perfect curl routine.