Model of the Year 2023, Paloma Elsesser: Fashion's Trailblazer

Shatakshi Negi

Paloma Elsesser with her Model of the Year Award at British Fashion Awards 2023
Paloma Elsesser with her Model of the Year Award at British Fashion Awards 2023
"I'm the first curve model to win this award," remarked Paloma Elsesser upon receiving the Model of the Year 2023 accolade at the British Fashion Awards.
For decades, the high fashion realm clung to the slender silhouette, perpetuating the ideal of size zero. However, in today's fashion landscape, an escalating call for inclusivity is reshaping norms. The industry's historical fixation on exclusivity, favoring specific body types, created formidable barriers for medium to plus-size models striving to break through. Paloma Elsesser has become a vocal advocate for change, leveraging her influence to amplify the presence of curve models. Her efforts transcend mere dialogue, fostering a pivotal shift in fashion houses' perspectives, and compelling them to diversify their collections by embracing a spectrum of body types.
In 2015, Paloma Elsesser embarked on her modeling odyssey when Pat McGrath personally discovered her on Instagram, selecting her as the face of the groundbreaking Pat McGrath Labs makeup line. Prior to this, her friend Stevie Dance, former fashion editor of Pop, had envisioned Elsesser's modeling potential and proactively submitted her photos to various agencies. Initially pursuing studies in psychology and literature at The New School in New York, Elsesser confronted the industry's predefined notion of plus-size models. Despite the existence of the plus-size sector, a rigid archetype posed challenges for her, making it demanding to secure modeling opportunities reflective of her unique and inclusive perspective.
In the ever-evolving realm of fashion, despite recent strides towards inclusivity with luxury houses featuring more plus-size models on runways, the cyclical and somewhat cynical nature of the industry persists. Fashion epochs not only bring forth new clothing trends but also redefine the notion of 'ideal body types' as trends in themselves. The pendulum of fashion swings gradually, shifting from the era when a curvier figure was deemed ideal for women to the current fixation on a zero-figure silhouette. This contemporary obsession with a slender physique can be attributed to the post-Covid recovery economy and the surge in popularity of weight-loss drugs like Ozempic. In reality, body types persist as a trend, whether through procedures like the Brazilian Butt Lift or the normalization of slimming drugs. Models, and by extension, individuals, often go to great lengths in pursuit of what society deems a 'normal' body.

In reality, body types persist as a trend, whether through procedures like the Brazilian Butt Lift or the normalization of slimming drugs.

Fashion brands are grappling with the realization that producing an extensive range of sizes not only impacts their profits but also proves to be a complex and intricate process. Rather than investing resources in diversifying their size offerings, they opt to channel their time and funds towards expanding outreach and distribution. Despite initial attempts at embracing inclusive size ranges, many brands swiftly abandoned the idea. Larger sizes often become exclusive to custom orders, placing them out of reach for a broader audience and creating a financial barrier for plus-size women. Fashion, traditionally a realm of fantasy, has perpetuated a singular narrative of luxury defined by whiteness and thinness, limiting the privileged few who can partake in its exclusive allure.
(L) Vogue January 2021 and (R) i-D Magazine April 2022
(L) Vogue January 2021 and (R) i-D Magazine April 2022
Rooted in a family that instilled a commitment to speaking out against social injustice, Elsesser's upbringing cultivated a confidence that became instrumental in catalyzing change within the fashion industry. Her belief that her beauty challenges established norms in fashion has positioned her as a pivotal figure. In her current standing, she serves as the linchpin for the inclusion of plus-size models in collections; without her, these sizes might not grace the runway. Elsesser's mere presence acts as a catalyst, compelling designers to broaden their size spectrum. This became evident during Fall 2023 Fashion Week when she temporarily stepped back for surgery, causing a noticeable decline in size diversity. The incident underscored the industry's reliance on a handful of faces to fulfill diversity quotas, revealing a lack of genuine commitment to transformative shifts in model dynamics. Unapologetically, she wields the power to represent and empower multiple women, carving a path through an industry increasingly fixated on thinness.

Elsesser's mere presence acts as a catalyst, compelling designers to broaden their size spectrum.

Elsesser stands as the driving force behind the discourse on size diversity, pushing us to scrutinize the diversity within the ateliers and leadership shaping high fashion's central narrative. Her influence compels us to ponder the exclusive nature of fashion, revealing how it flourishes at the cost of genuine diversity.
Behold the extraordinary power of Paloma Kai Shockley Elsesser – a lone force reshaping fashion, defying expectations, and leaving an indelible mark on the industry!
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Posted Dec 6, 2023

I highlight size inclusivity issues in high fashion, showcasing Paloma Elsesser's impact in diversifying modeling and challenging industry norms.

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