The monk, taller and thinner on the ground than expected, greeted me enthusiastically in rapid Chinese which I found incomprehensible even with my formal Mandarin. He picked up one of my bags and indicated we should begin the climb up at once. I nodded, smiling through my uncertainty, hefted my backpack onto my shoulders and followed the cheerfully prattling monk up those steep stone-stairs winding dizzyingly up. Naturally, the storm hit before we made it up to the precincts of the monastery. Naturally, I spent my first night on Black Mountain on the Staircase of Waterfalls, buffeted by high winds, shocked by lightning, deafened by thunder and pelted by large unforgiving raindrops. At least, I was in the comfortable, cheering company of Liu Su, the abbot of the monastery, though I didn’t know it at the time—like I didn’t know so many other things pertaining to my life.