Explore Georgia's Barbecue Tradition with One Planet Journey

It’s a bright Saturday morning in Georgia. Although the air is brisk, the rays hint at a warm afternoon ahead. Perfect weather for my road trip from Atlanta to Jackson. I continue along Highway 23. Despite being a Georgia native for 34 years, this is my first foray to the small town of Jackson and I pay close attention to my car navigation for every turn. The road winds to the right and soon, I can see the billows of smoke rising from the old chimney into the winter sky. I’ve arrived at Fresh Air Barbecue, a renowned establishment founded in 1929, serving traditional southern fare.

Like Independence Day, ‘barbecue’ is synonymous with American culture. While Texas and Tennessee hold the crown as the barbecue capitals of the US, Georgia barbecue is not a newcomer in this food arena. In ‘Georgia Barbecue: A History (American Palate)’, author Ed Reilly reveals that the origins of this cooking style began in Georgia 5,000 years ago when Native Americans smoked whole animals on wooden racks along the Savannah River. The word “barbecue” didn’t appear until many centuries later.

Barbecue usually evokes thoughts of hot dogs and hamburgers on an open grill, but to a true connoisseur, it involves smoking pork or beef for hours, sometimes overnight. Pitmasters – professional barbecue chefs – refer to this approach as “low and slow”, which means to cook at a low temperature over many hours. Today, this method of cooking is an integral part of Southern culture and a must-try for seekers of deeper food travel experiences.

The ‘world of barbecue’ has an intriguing juxtaposition between the detailed preparation and its simple presentation. This is one of its greatest attributes. When you arrive at Fresh Air Barbecue, you’ll find a quintessential no-frills restaurant. The building is a long, wooden structure featuring a sign that leaves no doubt about what they offer: “Fresh Air Barbecue – Brunswick Stew”. Despite this, it surprises new visitors to the restaurant to learn that the only other menu item (aside from desserts) is coleslaw. In similar fashion, the restaurant’s interior includes wood panelling and picnic-style seating. The décor is simple, with the occasional Coca-Cola antique, and walls adorned with awards, newspaper clippings, and photographs of the previous proprietors.

Fresh Air Barbecue knows its brand, as it has since 1929. The locals of Jackson and Georgia have taken notice, and this establishment has remained a staple for many generations. For Fresh Air pitmaster Lorie Shumake, her journey began at the age of 5, when she would visit the restaurant with her grandparents. Forty-five years later, she joined the team and has become an artisan of the barbecue craft. For Lorie, one of her favourite things about working at such a renowned place, is hearing similar stories from patrons who return decades after and find the same great food they know and love.

So, what makes Georgia barbecue so special? I asked Charles Barber, great-grandson of one of Fresh Air’s original proprietors, G.W. “Toots” Catson. According to Charles, it’s the “time-honoured traditions of [the] craft.” Using the same pit built by his great-grandfather, Fresh Air Barbecue uses a simple approach, meticulously perfected over the years. “It is that spirit of hard work and dedication to the craft of barbecue that has been passed down through the decades,” says Charles. He tells the story of a man who recently celebrated his 100th birthday at the restaurant. The patron has dined at Fresh Air Barbecue since its opening in 1929 and he brought his children, grandchildren, and great-grandchildren for the celebration.

The wood preparation is one of the most unassuming features of the barbecue process. Pitmasters use a blend of locally harvested hickory, white oak, and pecan, and before burning, you must season and dry it for two years. Once ready, the mixture burns evenly and adds a perfect, smoky flavour to the meat. Your nose will detect the aroma immediately when you walk through the door.

The pork hams come from Georgia’s neighbouring state, North Carolina, with the vegetables for the Brunswick Stew and coleslaw locally sourced. The potatoes are the exception to this rule, and according to Charles, must come directly from Idaho. Smoking takes time and classic Georgia barbecue restaurants embrace this. At Fresh Air, the pork hams smoke for 24 hours before they’re ready. Once done, chefs pull and chop the pork into tender, ready-to-serve pieces.

The wood-fired pit also cooks Fresh Air’s famous Brunswick Stew. The origins are a topic of vigorous debate. Georgia and Virginia State both claim the recipe with rivalry stemming from the city of Brunswick, Georgia, and the county of Brunswick, Virginia. Georgians proudly declare they are the true masters of the dish. If you’re wondering, “Why all the hype about a stew?”, the answer is straightforward: it’s delicious.

Like Georgia barbecue, Brunswick stew uses humble ingredients to create big bold flavours. At Fresh Air Barbecue, Brunswick Stew has not taken a back seat to the barbecue. It’s another slow-cooked dish, prepared from a family recipe from the 1800s. It uses choice eye-of-round beef and regionally sourced vegetables including tomatoes and onions.

Wondering about off-menu favourites, I ask Lorie, the pitmaster, who immediately responds that it would be the “Slap Yo Mama” banana pudding cheesecake. For those unfamiliar with this phrase, it originates from Louisiana and means the food tastes so good, you’ll be mad at your mother for never making it for you. This dish is Fresh Air’s spin on traditional banana pudding, another beloved dessert in Southern US cuisine. It includes layers of cheesecake with graham cracker crust and banana pudding with toppings of whipped cream and chocolate shavings. I can confirm this triple threat lives up to the hype. Fresh Air also serves classic southern pecan pie which they will top with melted butter upon request.

A benefit to such a lean menu is that it’s easy to pick the best this restaurant has to offer. Although I find it hard to choose a favourite, Charles opts for the Brunswick Stew, calling it the most quintessentially Georgian item on the menu. I recommend ordering the sampler plate, which includes the Fresh Air trio of barbecue, Brunswick Stew, and coleslaw.

You’ll also find a selection of basic condiments and two barbecue sauces: mild and hot. I chose the mild, a light tomato and vinegar-based sauce that complements the meat without overpowering the savoury, smokey flavour of the pork. Pairing it with a cold, sweet tea provides the most authentic Southern experience. The food arrives simply on a styrofoam plate with plastic utensils. After all, when the meal speaks for itself, who needs fancy serveware?