Exploring Flamenco Culture in Córdoba

There are few traditions more closely associated with Spanish culture than the art form of flamenco. Across the country, there are flamenco theatres from the east in Catalonia to the west in Galicia and everywhere in between. There is even flamenco in Lisbon in addition to Portugal’s traditional music, fado. Despite flamenco’s presence on the wider Iberian Peninsula, there is only one region in Spain that can claim this rich tradition as its own: Andalusia. And now we are heading to the heart of it, Córdoba.

Andalusia comprises the southernmost part of Spain. It is challenging to label a destination with a single description; however, one word solidly comes to mind while exploring here: vibrant. You think of white-washed facades, blooming courtyards, and exceptional gastronomy. Whatever the association, Andalusia has a lively culture, unique in all of Spain. And naturally, you’ve heard of the fabulous cities: Granada, Seville, Malaga, Cadiz, and, of course, Córdoba.

Andalusian identity comes from multiple influences over the centuries. From the Moors, easily recognisable from the ornate architecture, colourful tiles (known as azulejos), horseshoe arches, and lush gardens. Gothic cathedrals and religious festivals in Andalusia come courtesy of Christian influence. Andalusian cuisine carries the mark of global heritage, such as olive oil from the Romans and spices (cumin and saffron) as well as fruits (oranges, lemons and dates) from the Moors.

Flamenco is an integral part of Andalusian culture, and this historic art form represents a deeper way to experience the region. Think of soulful music combined with interpretive dance in an engaging, colourful performance. To explore the significance of this tradition, I travelled to the heart of Andalusia, namely Córdoba. Here, flamenco comes deeply embedded in the culture, going well beyond flamenco clubs.

Flamenco’s history has seen ups and downs. Historians hypothesise that the art form entered Andalusia in the eighteenth century with the Romani communities. Given the association with this group and its prevalence in lower-class neighbourhoods, the upper classes saw it as vulgar and regressive. For working-class Spaniards, however, flamenco represented an outlet to express dreams, woes, and discontent with government influence.

By the mid-twentieth century, Spain realised the economic potential of flamenco and invested in theatres across the country. This included worldwide advertisements to promote Spanish tourism. Subsequently, millions of visitors travelled to Spain, increasing prosperity. Today, flamenco shows and theatres continue to attract tourists.

While popular among tourists, for some locals, flamenco is a stereotype and a product of the tourism industry. However, the genuine foundations of flamenco are undeniable, and there are authentic ways to discover and enjoy it. Each performance is unique and includes thoughtful poetry, song (known as cante), dance (baile), guitar (toque), clapping (palmas), snapping (pitos) and stomping (zapateado). A show can include just a few performers to over seven artists all on stage at once. Despite the ensemble, each artist highlights his or her skill beautifully and independently.

As cante exhibits the heart of the singer, the guitar fills the same role for the musician. Back in Córdoba, I met up with luthier José Rodríguez, who’s crafted handmade guitars since 1971. In typical artisan fashion, José’s story begins modestly. At the age of 12, he attended a rural school in the mountains of Andalusia. In his spare time, he visits a local luthier to help place strings on guitars. As their relationship builds, José learns the craft of making guitars. He spent eleven years under his mentor before taking a leap of faith and starting a business of his own. Now, more than half a century later, the passion remains as strong as ever.

With an untrained eye, flamenco guitars, or most guitars for that matter, look similar. To distinguish between an instrument of mass production and one of artisan design, the devil is in the details. An unassuming detail of a handmade guitar is the pattern known as the mosaic, which surrounds the sound hole. The mass-producing builders use machines that print the same pattern repeatedly.

According to José, true artisans design their own unique mosaic and then build it using layer upon layer of coloured wood. It is a laborious process but one of love and dedication. He employs the same principle when designing the tip of his guitars, known as the headstock.

In addition to being a work of art, an artisan guitar must also be functional. Intentionality is necessary when designing for life expectancy and sound quality. If using wood that is young and not properly cured, a guitar is aesthetically pleasing but has a short lifespan. Wood suitable for guitar craftsmanship implies at least fifteen to twenty years or more of curation to ensure longevity. Despite crafting solely in Córdoba, José uses wood from all over the world, including ebony from Gabon, cedar from Honduras and pine from Germany.

In lutherie, designing the internal structures of an instrument is also an integral step to achieve a desired sound. While both look similar, flamenco guitars produce sharp, quick notes while acoustic guitars have deep, long notes. To get this result, each guitar needs a unique internal design. In a world of mass production, José’s craft reminds us what it means to value slowness, mastery, and heritage.

José’s guitars have an impressive reputation in Andalusia and are present throughout Spain in flamenco theatres and in music stores. You will also find one of his guitars on display at the Centro de Flamenco Fosforito in Córdoba. The namesake of this museum is Antonio Fernández, known as “Fosforito”, a famous flamenco singer from Córdoba.

Centro de Flamenco Fosforito is one of the best places to appreciate the depth of flamenco culture. Find the museum in a fourteenth-century building with a classic Andalusian courtyard and garden. Multiple exhibits of flamenco history, artists, instruments and audio samples from the various genres, will keep you busy.

Admiring flamenco comes easily after exploring its history. Yet, full appreciation must involve living the experience. To complete my deep dive into flamenco, I visit a local theatre in Córdoba- Tablao El Cardenal. After entering the venue, I find myself in an open courtyard. The night is warm, so I order a glass of sangria, then enter the main hall to locate my seat. Small wooden tables with chairs face a modest stage. Light shines on the stage as people take their seats. Then, the lights dim and the crowd quiets as a guitarist dressed in black takes the stage. After, a woman wearing red lipstick follows. She wears a black lace dress, almost as if she is in mourning, and we learn she is the lead vocalist.

You can sense the deep concentration as the guitarist plays and the vocalist sings a melancholy ballad. Her rhythmic claps and stomps demonstrate feelings of dissatisfaction and defiance. Soon, three women take the stage wearing brilliantly coloured dresses ranging from pink to bright red. Their hair sits neatly tied back with delicate hairpieces.

The guitar plays as the women dance, sway and toss their skirts. They rotate around and stomp their feet as the vocalist claps in support. This should be a cacophony of noise, but somehow, it is perfectly cohesive. The women depart as another aptly dressed man enters for a solo performance. He dances, taps his feet and creates a clatter of song at his fingertips with help from his castanets. There is a profound sense of passion paired with solemnity.

Flamenco elicits complicated emotions. On the surface, artists in elegant attire appear perfectly polished. Going deeper, you see struggle and hardship. The artist is an open and vulnerable underdog who acts as the only one present in the room. With time, their conflict turns into perseverance, then triumph as they emerge as the heroes.

Before you realise it, their story becomes yours. Your troubles are on display, and yet, you are the hero. Just like that, you understand even if you don’t speak the language. You’re sad but also hopeful. The performer shows it is okay to feel and that we should do so proudly.

Flamenco is a performance that is both aesthetically and emotionally vibrant. This tradition connects you to this region while also going deeper into yourself. For this reason, flamenco is a rich treasure of Andalusian culture worthy of your time. And there is no better place to seek the roots of flamenco than in Córdoba.

Tablao El Cardenal in Córdoba

Peña Flamenca Torres Macarena in Seville. Book in advance, especially in summer.

Centro de Flamenco Fosforito in Córdoba– Entry is free; ideal for a morning visit before a show.

Museo Del Baile Flamenco in Seville- Entry is €6 per person. It’s possible to book a flamenco dance class or performance here.

José Rodríguez’s studio in Córdoba- not open to the public, but you can walk by to see into the studio and watch him craft guitars.

Castañuelas del Sur in Seville- handmade castanets in operation for over twenty years.