Baker's Dozen Festival Organization

Bagels might be coffee’s more wholesome companion, but the Baker’s Dozen Festival celebrates hot bean water’s yeasty throuple with beer and doughnuts.

Brian Yaeger, a beverage aficionado, published author and former WW contributor, hosts the ninth annual Baker’s Dozen Festival at Lents neighborhood food hall The Zed. A unique spin on imbibing, Baker’s Dozen displays 13 breweries, coffee roasters and bakeries—a social and alimentary mixer. Drop all dietary restrictions and enjoy the spoils of the city’s finest brewers, bakers and roasters.

When the Craft Brewers Conference made a rare appearance in Portland in 2015, Yaeger knew he wanted to honor those involved. “I wanted to throw them a party,” he says. “I knew that I couldn’t do anything that would compete with larger events, and I thought, how about if I do something the day after?” A morning celebration materialized, allowing CBC attendees to keep the party going but still catch their flights home.

Yaeger discovered at the time that Portland had as many coffee roasters as breweries, counting well over 50 of each. Given how the CBC drew brewers from across the country, he wanted the squad to get a collective taste of Portland.

“The birth of Blue Star Donuts was everywhere, and everyone had that pink box of Voodoo. Why don’t I help them know that we are more than Voodoo Doughnut?” he says. “It just sort of popped into my head, almost fully formed. I thought a good, magical number would be a baker’s dozen.”

Word of the party wafted through the food and beverage scene, and friends and colleagues propositioned Yaeger for inclusion. An event organizer, he sensed the oven was hot and crafted the idea into a ticketed festival open to the public, which started with 200 attendees and peaked at 650. Piping hot the event has stayed. Baker’s Dozen sells out each year, now with a 425 capacity this time around for comfort.

In an era of inflation, Baker’s Dozen boasts remaining accessible to festival patrons. Without raising prices, admission includes 13 beer, coffee and doughnut samples for each category. “As much as I love putting on events, I enjoy attending festivals and getting a great value,” Yaeger says.

Offering only 13 spots in a saturated food and beverage scene encourages festival organizers to showcase different local shops each year, with few repeats. (McMenamins and Steeplejack are recurring staples, as they produce both beer and coffee.) Rotating the eateries and drinkeries, the event welcomes all to throw their names in the hat that lives in an Excel list Yaeger keeps.

“I always change the lineup because I want to spread that love around and support the businesses,” he says. “We call Portland ‘Beervana’ in the industry where we could also tout ‘Coffeevana’ or ‘Coffeetopia.’”

Brewhouses choose their paired roastery to create a coffee-inspired beer, while doughnut shops of all shapes and sizes present their goods. Baker’s Dozen has featured big names like Voodoo Doughnut and Blue Star Donuts, Great Notion and Boneyard Beer, and fallen heroes like Ecliptic, Cascade and Culmination. Portland transplant brewery pFriem—which just won seven medals, including Large Brewery of the Year, at the Oregon Beer Awards—will be featured.

“I make sure I’m inviting big and small husband-and-wife operations,” Yaeger says. He goes on to highlight Hillsboro roastery Roasted by Mom Coffee’s participation. “It is important to invite female-owned, independent operations. I always like to make sure I have new roasters at the event.”

Yaeger’s plans for next year’s 10th anniversary involve showcasing returning players throughout the years and throwbacks to brews that have dissolved. Brands that have perished may resurge in a nod to Portland nostalgia.

“I would love to bring back Survival Stout from Hopworks and some Laurelwood,” Yaeger says.

Baker’s Dozen is family friendly, though coffee and beer are reserved for those 21 and over. Yaeger’s son, who is experiencing his magical 13th birthday, will be a volunteer passing out taster glasses. A portion of proceeds go to All Hands Raised, a nonprofit championing educational equity.

“Kids are allowed to polish off and won’t be turned away from any doughnut sample. Leave the coffee and beer to the adults,” Yaeger says. “I would love for it to be part of someone’s first food festival story.”

SEE IT: Baker’s Dozen Festival at The Zed, 5716 SE 92nd Ave., 971-339-2374, bakersdozenfest.com. 10 am Saturday, April 19. $40.