It can be hard to think about all the steps in your skincare routine if you struggle with irritation or inflammation. Who needs extra moisturizers or toners when the angry red blemishes on your face are all you can think about? Made from the seeds of the evening primrose plant, some might already be familiar with evening primrose used as a supplement, but this ingredient is also used by eczema or psoriasis sufferers to soothe dry or inflamed skin. 

Ingredient Category: Occlusive, Moisturizer, Anti-inflammatory, Antioxidant

Main Benefit: If you struggle with flaky, dry, irritated or blemished skin evening primrose is known to reduce inflammation and promote healing. The high amounts of linoleic acid and gamma-linolenic acid have a soothing, regulatory effect.

Look for it in: Serums, moisturizers, oils, oil cleansers, spot treatments, and supplements 

Evening primrose is a yellow flower that grows in the United States and certain parts of Europe. It was originally used by Native Americans in poultices to speed wound healing as well as an infusion for its astringent and sedative properties.  Cherokee Indians applied the plant’s root to hemorrhoids, while the Iroquois natives used it as a salve for skin issues.  In the 17th century Europeans discovered the plant and used it to treat a wide variety of ailments, including asthma, psoriasis, eczema, whooping cough, premenstrual syndrome, Raynaud’s Disease, rheumatoid arthritis, multiple sclerosis, and mastalgia. During World War II the seeds were even roasted and used as a coffee substitute. Throughout the 1970s evening primrose continued to be a popular herbal supplement that was sold.

Today you can find evening primrose as a standalone oil, as an ingredient in skincare products, or sold as a supplement in tablet or capsule form. It is currently being used for arthritis, skin disorders, allergies, asthma, premenstrual syndrome, multiple sclerosis, and depression.  Some research suggests that the supplement can help recovering alcoholics, restoring normal liver function quicker and lessening withdrawal symptoms.

Rich with vitamins and minerals, evening primrose has a variety of benefits. It is mostly known as an anti-inflammatory commonly used by eczema and psoriasis sufferers to soothe irritated, dry skin. Besides acting as a soothing agent, this ingredient can also enhance the texture and elasticity of skin, improving wrinkles and roughness.

Evening primrose is made up of several different beneficial elements that make it such a great ingredient to look out for in your skincare products. The key ingredients in evening primrose oil are essential fatty acids, including Omega-6 acids, Omega-9 acids, and stearic acid. Essential fatty acids are fats that the human body cannot produce on its own, but can obtain from other sources such as an evening primrose oil supplement. If your skin is lacking these important fatty acids it can result in rough, dry skin.

Let’s break down these elements:

Linoleic acid: This Omega-6 acid has anti-inflammatory properties. It reinforces the skin barrier to help retain moisture and regulate sebum production. Linoleic acid can also soothe and prevent acne, facilitate wound healing, softer skin and elasticity to help prevent wrinkles and reduce the effects of ageing.

Gamma-Linolenic acid:  This fatty acid also has anti-inflammatory and nourishing properties. It helps to maintain the health and function of skin cells.

Oleic Acid: With both skin-softening and antioxidant properties, oleic acid helps to fight negative environmental effects of pollution and UV rays.

Stearic acid helps to restore the skin barrier and also acts as a surfactant, meaning it attracts dirt and oils and is used in cleansers. 

The easiest way to use evening primrose is topically using an oil - you’re likely to get the most direct benefits this way. Make sure you look for a pure oil! 

As with any new product you introduce to your skincare lineup, make sure you do a patch test to ensure you won’t have an allergic reaction. To do this, simply take a small drop of the product and rub it onto your forearm. Wait for 24 hours to see if any irritation occurs. If not, you’re good to go.

How you approach your application will depend on your skin’s specific needs and condition. If you’re trying to treat an acne breakout , a spot treatment might work best. Apply a drop or two only to the affected areas of your skin. If you’re dealing with eczema or psoriasis and have dry, rough, or flaky skin, this is an indicator that your skin’s moisture barrier has been disrupted. Applying the oil to your entire face will help to restore moisture and treat any irritation.

Evening primrose oil can be applied in the morning or evening, depending on your preference. If you choose to apply in the daytime, the general rule is to use sunscreen first. Wait a few minutes, then apply the oil and allow it to completely absorb into your skin before using any makeup. The general rule is to leave out the moisturizer when applying oil with sunscreen - you don’t want the mix of oil and moisturizer to mess with the effectiveness of your UV protection!

Nighttime application is a little more flexible. You can use an evening primrose oil after your moisturizer as an occlusive that will seal water into your skin, or simply in place of your moisturizer.

If you’re using a skincare product that includes evening primrose as one of the ingredients, or taking it as an oral supplement, be sure to follow the directions listed on the label.

When you introduce a new product or ingredient to your body, whether that’s with a topical or a supplement, there is always a possibility that you may experience side effects. Every person’s body is different! 

If you have sensitive or irritated skin, you might find that evening primrose is too potent even if you’ve already patch tested successfully. Stop using the product if you develop any itchy rashes, redness or bumps, and give your skin about a week to recover. If you’d like, you can then try diluting your evening primrose with another soothing oil such as jojoba or squalane.

Some people might find that adding an evening primrose product to their skincare lineup actually causes more breakouts. While this might be frustrating at first and lead to some people never using a certain product again, be patient. Sometimes new breakouts when introducing a new product is actually “purging”, or a reaction to the new product. Purging typically clears within 6 weeks, which is about the same time span it should take to start to see results from a new topical product.

Do not use skincare products with evening primrose if you are allergic to it or any plant in the Onagraceae family, and be sure to check with a doctor if you are pregnant, breastfeeding, on medication, or have a health condition.

It can be life-changing to find the right products you are compatible with that treat your skin concerns. Evening primrose may not be a common ingredient you hear about often, but it might be worth a try especially if you suffer from dry or irritated skin!