Beginner's Guide to Reptile Care and Maintenance
Emily Bayne
Getting into the world of reptiles is an exciting adventure, but it's important to remember that reptiles are very different from dogs and cats! The needs of reptiles vary significantly from one species to another, which means you've got a lot of research to do (and a lot of things to buy). The sheer amount of information online about reptiles can be overwhelming (and confusing), particularly for those new to reptile care.
Luckily, we’re here to help!
We've compiled a list of all the important information you need to know as a beginner reptile owner. This guide will explore long-term care of reptiles, touching on species-specific topics, diet, common health conditions (and how to combat them), shedding, enrichment, handling, and more!
In our companion guide, we covered reptile enclosure basics, including the types of enclosures and accommodations that reptiles need, such as UVB light, humidity, and supplementary heat, depending on their species. If you're still in the process of getting started, finding and preparing for a reptile, it's a great resource to reference when building a setup.
Enough with the introductions, let's get you prepared for your new pet!
1. Diet & Feeding
First and foremost, let's address the most common question: “What do I feed it?!”
The simple answer is that your reptile's diet will depend on its species. Some reptiles are insectivores, whereas others are carnivores, and some eat strictly plants. There are also a few species, like beardies and some types of turtles and tortoises, that eat both plants and insects.
Insectivores:
Some species of reptiles that exclusively eat insects include: Leopard geckos, crested geckos, and young bearded dragons.
For these species, you'll want to look for insects with favorable protein-to-fat ratios. Good choices include:
Crickets
Dubia roaches
Mealworms
Preparing insects for your reptile:
Feeding your insectivore isn't as simple as opening a cup of crickets and dumping a few in; you'll need to prepare them by gut-loading them the day prior and dusting with calcium right before feeding.
Gut-loading: Offering your insects a nutritious diet (commercial gut-load food, veggies like: carrots and greens) 24-48 hours before offering them to your reptile.
Dusting: Refers to lightly coating insects with a powdered calcium supplement. This should be done at most (if not all) feedings to prevent Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD). We’ll cover more on dusting and MBD in detail further down.
Herbivores:
These reptiles thrive on a varied diet of plants, vegetables, and occasional fruits. Herbivorous reptiles include: Adult Uromastyx, Green Iguanas, and Tortoises.
Greens should be high in calcium and low in oxalates. Examples include:
Turnip greens
Dandelion greens
AVOID: Spinach and kale can interfere with calcium absorption, and iceberg lettuce provides few vitamins.
Fruits (occasionally):
Fruit should be reserved for rare treats (e.g., once a month) due to its high sugar content. Berries, mango, and melon are good options.
A note on tortoises:
Please avoid feeding spinach, citrus, iceberg lettuce, most grain products, dog and cat foods, and acidic food items.
Carnivores:
These reptiles eat whole animal prey and include snakes (like ball pythons, corn snakes), monitors, and tegus.
Frozen/Thawed Rodents
Rodents are usually the choice prey of snake owners, but they aren’t all created equal.
Frozen/thawed rodents should be appropriately sized for your reptile. A good rule of thumb is to offer prey that is no wider than the broadest part of the reptile's body. Live rodents are not advisable.
Feeder Fish (like guppies, mollies, platies, and mosquito fish)
Aquatic and semi-aquatic reptiles, such as garter snakes, painted turtles, and box turtles, often eat small fish in the wild. However, like rodents, feeder fish should be appropriately sized for your reptile.
AVOID feeding goldfish since these contain thiaminase, which can make your pet sick.
Bearded dragons, box turtles, and blue tongue skinks are just a few examples of omnivorous reptiles. These species eat a varied diet of insects, plants, vegtables, and fruits (although these should be given sparingly). The exact ratio of plants to insects will depend on the age and species of your reptile.
Typically, juveniles require an insect-heavy diet (around 80% of their calorie intake) with some veggies for added micronutrients (about 20%).
Once omnivorous reptiles reach adulthood, they may need to shift to a diet heavier in vegetables and greens (80%) with insects as a smaller portion (20%), although this will also depend on their species.
The diet should be a combination of the insect and herbivore lists above. For example, a bearded dragon's salad might include: collard greens, bell peppers, and squash, topped with a few dusted crickets.
Dusted Insects
Vegetables
Some Fruits
Pellets (80% of a turtle's calories should come from pellets)
Hydration:
While reptiles get some moisture from their food, all reptiles need access to a shallow, clean water dish and the correct moisture level in their environment. Tree dwellers like chameleons need adequate misting since they absorb water droplets through their skin and mouths while drinking from leaves.
Avoid "People Food":
Never feed your reptile cooked or processed foods or seasoned meats.
Observe:
Keep an eye on your reptile's intake and output. Loss of appetite is often the first indicator of sickness or stress, so pay attention.
In the wild, reptiles have a varied diet and access to natural sunlight, which provides them with all the nutrients they need to survive. In captivity, their diet is much more limited, and you have to make up for that difference by offering supplements!
Make no mistake: no matter the diet you provide your pet, these are non-negotiable for preventing severe—and sometimes fatal—nutritional deficiencies.
There are two main supplements you'll need to include: calcium (with/without D3) and multivitamins.
Just like in humans, calcium is required for reptiles to have strong bones, proper muscle function, and nerve transmission. A lack of calcium can lead to Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD), a painful and crippling condition that is often irreversible. There are two types of calcium supplements for reptiles:
Calcium WITH D3: Vitamin D3 is essential for your reptile to actually absorb the calcium from its diet. You'll need to use this supplement if your reptile's enclosure does not have high-quality UVB lighting, which enables reptiles to produce their own D3. This supplement fills the gap when lighting is not ideal.
Calcium WITHOUT D3: This supplement is ideal if your reptile's enclosure has a proper, high-output UVB light. This provides the calcium for them to absorb using the D3 they are generating naturally from the light. This prevents over-supplementation of D3, which can also be harmful.
Call-out:
It is recommended to add calcium to your pet's food at every feeding!
Multivitamins provide a variety of essential vitamins and minerals that may be missing from your pet's diet — most notably vitamin A, which is vital for skin, vision, and organ health. Multivitamins are used less frequently than calcium, typically only 1-2 times per week for most species, depending on their specific needs.
Dusting with Reptile Supplements
The easiest method to ensure your pet is getting the proper vitamins and minerals is by placing their food (live insects or moistened salad greens) in a plastic bag or container with a small pinch of supplement powder.
Gently shake it until the food is lightly coated (like a fine dusting of powdered sugar). The prey should look like a light “ghost” — not a powdered donut.
Over-dusting can make the food less appetizing and cause your scaled friend to refuse their meal.
Feeding Frequency:
Unlike mammals that often eat daily, reptiles have much slower metabolic rates, and how often they eat will depend on their age and species. Overfeeding is a common mistake made by many beginner reptile owners. Unfortunately, this can cause digestive problems in the short term and obesity, fatty liver disease, and heart disease later on. Let's discuss how often you should be feeding your reptile.
Juveniles (hatchlings & babies)
Feed daily or every other day. Babies and juveniles need frequent, nutrient-rich meals to fuel their growing bodies.
An insectivorous juvenile might eat 10-20 appropriately sized insects daily, and you should supply them with as many insects as they can reasonably eat in 10-15 minutes.
Herbivores, on the other hand, will need a constant supply of fresh greens.
Once they've reached maturity (around 12–18 months), most insectivorous and carnivorous reptiles will need far fewer meals, since their daily caloric expenditure drops.
Adult insectivores will feed 2–4 times per week, depending on species. Most herbivorous and omnivorous species, like bearded dragons and turtles, often still need veggies daily.
Snakes, however, typically eat much less often, since they consume their prey whole and take days to completely digest it. These guys usually only eat once every week or two.
Examples
An adult leopard gecko might eat 6–8 large crickets 2–3 times a week.
An adult bearded dragon might get a large salad daily, but insects only every other day.
An adult ball python might eat an appropriately sized rat every 7–14 days.
Tortoises need access to fresh fruits and veggies 4–5 days a week; they require at least two fasting days each week to digest their food.
Aquatic turtles should receive fresh vegetables, pellets, and protein (like Grub Bugs) daily during their younger months. Once they reach 1–5 years, the feeding schedule can be reduced to every other day, and then to every 2–3 days thereafter. Since they are opportunistic eaters, they are prone to overeating if fed too often.
2. Treats
Who doesn't love a treat? There are plenty of nutritious options you can offer your herbivores and omnivores as an occasional snack, such as herbs and fruits.
Plant-based Treats:
Berries (blueberries, strawberries, blackberries, or raspberries)
Melons (honeydew, watermelon, cantaloupe)
Bananas (or red bananas)
Edible flowers
Parsley
Cilantro
Papaya
Grapes
Mango
Apples
Basil
Pears
Mint
Insect Treats:
Hornworms
Silk worms
Treats for Carnivores
Carnivorous snakes aren't big snackers, but you can always spice up their diet by offering whole quail eggs or switching up their prey for some dietary enrichment.
Feed fruits and other high-sugar foods infrequently to prevent obesity.
Remove pits from fruits like peaches and seeds from apples, as these can cause obstructions and may contain toxic compounds.
Cut up fruit into bite-sized pieces.
Avocado
Citrus (oranges, grapefruit, lemons, limes) or other acidic food items.
Fireflies
Ladybugs
Boxelder bugs
Onions
Garlic
Dumb cane (Dieffenbachia)
Iceberg lettuce
Most grain products
Dog and cat food
3. How to Feed
Depending on the species, feeding methods include using a dish, tongs, or hand feeding.
Dishes: Best for geckos, bearded dragons, and tortoises.
Tongs: Best for snakes and live food (also a great way to alert your pet that it's time to eat!)
Hand feeding: Best for young reptiles (especially when feeding live prey). Not recommended for older, larger, or stronger reptiles.
Hand feeding is not recommended for snakes, as they can easily miss the prey and strike you during feeding. Instead, use tongs to create some distance from you and the animal. Tongs will also eventually become a signal for your reptile that dinner time is approaching, and can eliminate confusion between what is prey and what is your hand.
Frozen vs Live Food
Frozen/thawed food is safer than live prey for snakes, since live rodents don't go down without a fight and can cause wounds (which may become infected and be difficult to heal).
Likewise, live prey can carry diseases, parasites, and bacteria that may sicken your pet. Frozen food significantly reduces the risk of prey-borne illnesses.
4. Handling & Bonding
Here are the dos and don’ts for handling and bonding with your reptile:
Do:
Adopt your pet from a young age to encourage socialization and make them more likely to be friendly with frequent handling.
Allow acclimation before handling — do not dive right in; allow your reptile to settle into their environment and your routine first.
Support their whole body — holding your reptile properly will not only reduce the risk of injury, but also prevent stress, promote bonding, and help them become familiar with you.
Gently handle them every day once they’re settled in.
Give them warm baths to create an association with you and comfort.
Handle or pet them while they’re eating (that’s how you get bitten).
Jostle your reptile or make sudden movements while holding them
Pick them up by their tail or limbs.
Stress vs. Relaxed Behavior Signals.
Reptiles under stress can experience a range of issues, including poor growth, refusal to eat, and an increased likelihood of biting. Learn to recognize the common signs that indicate whether your scaly companion is feeling calm or stressed.
5. Cleaning & Maintenance
Daily: Spot clean by removing uneaten food and reptile waste, and add fresh-water.
Once weekly: Do a partial substrate change in addition to daily spot cleaning, change the water in reptile ponds.
Every 2-4 weeks: Deep clean with reptile-safe products, scrub and rinse the entire enclosure (including hides and décor), and add fresh substrate.
Always wear nitrile gloves to protect yourself from bacteria when cleaning enclosures.
Dawn dish detergent is reptile-safe and can be used to clean both the enclosure and décor/hides.
Use a toothbrush for hard-to-reach places or stuck-on grime.
Rubber-tipped tongs are great for spot cleaning and substrate checks, as they are less likely to injure your pet should they get in the way and harm the reptile.
Always secure your animal in a separate enclosure before doing a deep clean.
To clean glass, spray the enclosure glass with an apple cider vinegar solution, and use a razor blade and paper towel to remove debris and hard water stains.
Rinse the enclosure thoroughly before placing your pet back into an enclosure cleaned with apple cider vinegar (or any other cleaning agent).
*Never use Ammonia, Bleach, Chemical disinfectants, or Phenol-containing products on reptile enclosures.
6. Common Health Issues in Reptiles
Reptiles are susceptible to a number of health issues, but the good news is that many of these are preventable with the right supplements, diet, setup, and hygiene. Let's discuss the most common problems reptiles face and how to address them.
Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD)
MBD is a serious, debilitating condition caused by a lack of calcium, vitamin D₃, or improper calcium-to-phosphorus ratios in the diet. It leads to a softening of the bones, making them prone to fractures and deformities, and can even cause paralysis.
Thankfully, this condition is preventable. Use appropriate UVB lighting (which allows the reptile to synthesize D₃ and use calcium), offer nutritious food, and dusting food with a calcium supplement will help ensure this doesn't happen to your pet.
Symptoms
Jaw abnormalities (swollen or "rubbery")
Trembling or twitching
Difficulty standing
Bowed limbs
Like humans and other mammals, reptiles can get respiratory infections. The most common cause of this in reptiles is being held at an improper temperature or humidity level (usually too high for arid species or too low for tropical species). Safeguard your reptile against respiratory infections by ensuring your temperature gradient is correct and monitoring humidity closely with a digital hygrometer.
Symptoms:
Wheezing, clicking, or popping sounds when breathing
Mucus or bubbles in the nostrils or mouth
Open-mouth breathing
Loss of appetite
Long-term dehydration, kidney problems, and high protein diets (in herbivores) can cause reptiles to develop gout, a painful illness caused by a buildup of uric acid crystals.
Prevent gout by ensuring constant access to clean, fresh water at all times and feeding a complete and balanced, species-specific diet.
Symptoms:
Hard lumps under the skin
Scale Rot (Dermatitis)
Scale rot, or dermatitis, is a bacterial infection of the skin and scales, often starting on the belly. It’s caused by prolonged exposure to damp, dirty, and unsanitary substrate. This is common in enclosures with high humidity that aren't cleaned regularly. Ensure the substrate is dry on top, even if the humidity is high, and spot-clean waste immediately.
Symptoms:
Skin discoloration (red, black, or brown spots)
Swollen, or blistered scales
In advanced stages, scales may become crusty and peel away.
Neurological Issues (e.g., "Stargazing")
Stargazing is a term for when an animal arches its head and neck backward toward the sky, often accompanied by disorientation, corkscrewing, and loss of balance. This can be a sign of several severe problems, including vitamin B1 deficiency, exposure to toxins, head injury, or certain viral infections. While prevention isn't always possible for some causes of this, you can set your pet up for success by ensuring proper nutrition, a safe enclosure, and avoiding the use of toxic cleaning agents or chemicals near your pet.
Symptoms:
Disorientation
Loss of balance
"Corkscrewing" twisting of the head or body, or swaying
Malnutrition and dehydration are broad categories covering various deficiencies and a lack of water. This can cause a slew of problems for pets, primarily due to an inadequate or incorrect diet, malabsorption, and insufficient water access. An easy way to tell if your reptile is dehydrated is to (gently) pinch the skin — if it doesn't snap back quickly, it’s likely dehydrated.
Luckily, these conditions are easy to prevent by researching and providing your species' specific dietary needs (insectivore, herbivore, or carnivore) and ensuring access to clean drinking water in a form they can consume (mist droplets, water bowls, and/or ponds depending on the species).
Symptoms:
Reptiles can fall victim to both internal and external parasites.
Internal Parasites: (e.g., Roundworms, Hookworms, Pinworms, Coccidia)
Symptoms:
*Typically, a fecal exam by a veterinarian is needed for diagnosis.
External Parasites:
Mites (e.g., Ophionyssus mites): Tiny black or red dots often seen around the eyes, ears, and skin folds. They cause irritation, frequent soaking, and can transmit disease.
Ticks: Larger and easier to spot, often attached to the skin.
Quarantine new reptiles and have them tested and examined for diseases and parasites before introducing them to your existing pets.
Practice good hygiene by cleaning the enclosure regularly.
Ask for a fecal exam at your regular vet checkups.
If your pet has mites, thoroughly disinfect their enclosure with bleach and toss any décor or hides that cannot be thoroughly disinfected.
You'll need to use disposable bedding like newspaper until the mites are eliminated (this usually takes several weeks of treatment to achieve).
Do not use over-the-counter permethrin-based antiparasitics because these are highly toxic to reptiles.
Ivermectin, while safe for some reptiles, is highly poisonous to tortoises.
Find a reptile vet early and have annual checkups — reptile vets can be difficult to come across, so make sure you research vets in your area before bringing a reptile home.
Make sure you're consistently meeting your pet's humidity, temperature, and space needs.
Use a UVB light for reptiles that need it.
Feed a healthy and species-specific diet.
7. Shedding Signs
Shedding, or ecdysis, is a regular part of reptile life. The frequency of sheds depends on the species, with some undergoing this transformation as often as weekly.
Most snakes shed every 4 to 6 weeks, whereas tortoises shed once a year. Lizards, on the other hand, can shed every 1-4 weeks, depending on the species and where they are in their growth cycle.
Warm baths, providing something rough to rub against, and temporary increases in humidity can help your reptile through their transformation.
Resist the urge to "help" by peeling your reptile’s loose skin while they are shedding. This can harm new skin and leave your pet vulnerable to bacteria and infections.
Common signs of shedding include:
Behavioral changes (refusing food, hiding more, or becoming temperamental)
Changes in the color or appearance of their skin
Rubbing on terrarium items
Cloudy eyes in snakes
Dull skin
8. Seasonal & Life Stage Care
A reptile's needs change and evolve as they mature, and understanding these ever-changing needs is key to optimal care.
Juvenile vs. Adult Needs
Caring for a juvenile is very different from caring for an adult reptile. Here are the main differences:
Growth & Diet: Growing juveniles have smaller stomachs and higher caloric needs to fuel their development. This means they require frequent feedings (e.g., daily or every other day) of appropriately sized, calcium-rich prey to support bone development.
Housing: Some keepers start juveniles in smaller enclosures to reduce stress and make finding food easier; the setup must still meet all their environmental needs (correct heat, UVB, and humidity). Others opt to start them in their full-sized enclosure with plenty of clutter and hides to feel secure.
Handling: Juveniles are often more skittish and fragile. Handle them minimally and be very gentle until they are settled.
Diet: When reptiles reach adulthood, their metabolism slows down as they shift from growth to maintenance. Feeding frequency must be reduced to prevent obesity (e.g., moving from daily to 2-3 times a week for many insectivores).
Enclosure: They must be housed in their full-sized, permanent enclosure that allows for natural behaviors like climbing, digging, and thermoregulation.
Breeding Readiness: Adults of breeding age may exhibit seasonal changes in behavior and appetite, even if you are not intentionally breeding them.
Brumation (For Some Species)
Brumation is a period of dormancy akin to hibernation in some mammals. Temperate reptile species like bearded dragons, corn snakes, and Russian tortoises undergo this period during cold months in the wild.
What it is: A natural slowdown of metabolism, digestion, and activity. It is not a period of deep sleep; the animal may still drink or move occasionally. Brumation is not mandatory for pet reptiles, but it can be beneficial for long-term health and breeding conditioning if done correctly.
How to Encourage Brumanation
This should only be attempted by keepers who have researched their specific species thoroughly.
Process:
Have your pet undergo a pre-brumation veterinary checkup to ensure they are healthy and parasite-free.
Gradually reduce the daylight hours and temperatures over several weeks.
Withhold food for 1-2 weeks before cooling to allow the gut to empty and prevent fatal bacterial fermentation.
House the animal in a cool, dark, and quiet place (e.g., a closet or spare room) for 1-4 months with access to fresh water.
Have them undergo a gradual warming period to bring them out of brumation.
9. Enrichment & Mental Stimulation
A stimulating environment is key for both mental and physical well-being, as it prevents boredom, reduces stress, and encourages natural behaviors.
The Foundation: A Complex Habitat
Your enclosure should be more than just a box with a hide. Here are some ideas to turn your reptile habitat into a stimulating, enriching home they’ll love to explore.
Climbing Branches & Rocks: Incorporate branches and rocks of varying diameters and textures into your pet's habitat for climbing and exploration. Branches and rocks are much more than decor; they help prevent muscle loss, aid in shedding, and allow for thermoregulation at different heights. Ensure all structures are secure and cannot collapse.
Hides & Security: It's best to include multiple hides throughout the enclosure and across the temperature gradient. Ideally, you should have a warm hide, a cool hide, and a humid hide. Hides should be a snug fit, with only one entrance, to make the animal feel truly secure.
Live Plants: Improve air quality, help maintain humidity, and add aesthetic appeal. Choose non-toxic, sturdy species like pothos, snake plants, and spider plants. Be sure to source plants that haven't been treated with pesticides.
Artificial Plants: Provide excellent cover and visual barriers without any maintenance. They are perfect for animals that tend to destroy live plants.
Promote Natural Behaviors: Foraging
Instead of simply placing food in a dish, make your pet work for its meals. This provides crucial mental stimulation.
Scatter Feeding: For insectivores like many lizards, scatter feeder insects throughout the enclosure to encourage hunting and exploration.
Puzzle Feeders: For larger, intelligent species like monitors and tegus, use puzzle feeders designed for dogs or cats (ensure they can be safely cleaned) to encourage problem-solving for their food.
Hidden Food: For herbivores, hide pieces of fruit or favored greens under rocks or within bundles of leaves.
10. Final Tips for Success
You've done the research and set up the perfect enclosure. Here's how to ensure long-term success as a reptile keeper.
Keep a Care Log: A simple notebook or log in your notes app is an underutilized tool for reptile care. Use your method of choice to track feeding schedules, shedding cycles, weight, bowel movements, and any changes in behavior. This can help you spot trends and is vital information for your veterinarian if a problem arises.
Join Reptile Communities: Connect with other keepers online (forums, Facebook groups, Reddit) or in person through local reptile clubs. These communities are excellent for advice, species-specific tips, and learning from the experiences of others.
Research the Adult Size: That tiny baby at the pet store won’t stay small for long—they can grow quickly! Always research a species’ adult size and lifespan before deciding you’re ready for the responsibility.
Vet Checkups are Essential: Don't wait for an emergency to find a vet. Schedule an initial wellness exam for your new pet and follow up with annual checkups. A qualified reptile veterinarian can spot subtle health issues early and provide parasite screenings.
Now that we’ve covered the basics, head over to our reptile enclosure guide to get your enclosure reptile-ready!
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Posted Nov 21, 2025
Created a detailed guide for beginner reptile owners on care and feeding for Small Pet Select.
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