The Art and Context of Military Surplus Fashion

In my opinion there’s a versatile sense of fashion and taste in military surplus. For those who are unaware, military surplus is the practice of distributing outdated or excessive gear to civilians for domestic and commercial use. The scene of military surplus has seen a large revitalization in the commercial market as a whole, due to more mainstream media (such as American Pipedream) and circulation of military gear which could now be categorized as vintage. With this being said, it is evident that military surplus can be lumped into the vintage scene and thrift scene in some instances that will be expanded upon later. Though overall I find that these clothes are not only fashionable, but also extremely utilitarian. I could rave on about my flecktarn rain coat, with the pocket space originally intended to hold magazines of ammunition, yet could be used in a number of ways to hold many different things. Though the art and versatility of this surplus must also reckon with wartime implications of the clothing which I feel is inseparable from the art and fashion of the clothes.

Much of the military surplus in circulation derives from old stockpiles of outdated uniforms and equipment–a prime example of this in reference to past association would be East German attire that is widely available. The East German raincoat itself is a classic stylish raincoat issued during the divide of Germany post-WW2, and both aesthetically and functionally it is an exceptional piece of clothing. Yet it is likewise also indicative of the east german regime, which does not have a spotless record whatsoever. Yet nonetheless, if the clothes are not redistributed into circulation, they would only contribute to human waste and CO2 emissions. In the instance of the German surplus, there is often a lacking emblem or status–allowing the clothes to be perceived as normal utilitarian clothes. Which is in many cases more separated from their past than the likes of other surplus in circulation.

I’ve been an avid fan of German and Austrian surplus simply because it is so versatile. The flecktarn parka is exceptionally weatherproof and the alpenflage jackets are just great. Yet during my stay in Ireland I found surplus coveted by many in the market. Irish DPM (DPM alludes to the camouflage: disruptive pattern material) is a camouflage pattern exclusively issued to the Irish military, though recently decommissioned and phased out. Interestingly enough, the charming camouflage pattern was deemed unconventional in practical uses. It is less remembered for the military that wore it, but rather the organization of individuals known as the IRA. The IRA stands for the Irish Republican Army, which has been a militia-like army that enacted guerilla warfare against the occupation of British troops in Ireland. The IRA’s history can be seen not only through the early civil war, such as Easter Rising: a battle through Dublin that ultimately was crucial in Ireland gaining independence. Though in a more recent sense the IRA become controversial due to the Troubles, being the time period between 1970-2000. When efforts of Irish unification were clashing with the British rule in northern Ireland, which turned peaceful protest to violent guerilla warfare. Both the IRA, British constables and loyalist murder gangs warred with each other through both a national and religious dissent. The heights of controversy surrounding the IRA most often span from their use of terrorism and bombs on Loyalists and British officers, which accrued a number of civilian casualties as well.

The military surplus and its history is heavily associated with the Troubles in Ireland, and yet ironically in two vintage stores in Belfast I was able to acquire a full suit of Irish DPM surplus. While the dangers of wearing said surplus in northern Ireland are present, it is still legal to possess and wear. This is in contrast to the Republic of Ireland, where the physical dangers of wearing said clothes are much lower, yet it is discernibly illegal to wear or possess. The association of the clothes with the IRA is something inseparable from the clothes themselves, despite the fashionable and utilitarian design of the clothes.

With reticence in mind, I have not nor will I wear the Irish DPM in Ireland, though I would be lying if I said I wouldn’t wear it in the states. Fully recognizing the associated history of Irish DPM and the Troubles, I still find it worth wearing in places where the IRA have no association. Being that the design and feel of the clothes themselves are charming, and even to the support of many of my Irish peers who feel as the continuation of wearing the camouflage elsewhere becomes a recontextualization of the clothes with acknowledgement to the Troubles as well. With much of the military look and emblem being a symbol of Irish pride, but also a hope for reunification–which was always one of the tenets of the IRA and the Irish people. These clothes will never lose their association with the history in which they were used, but discernibly they can be reused and recontextualized if in good taste.