Lapping the boroughs on this mission, I discovered most of the city’s dispensaries (even its very first) classify their opening as a “pop-up” phase on paper, a temporary schematic meant to last only as long as it takes to figure out the needs and styles of their clientele (which is fine for now). But in practice, this equates to a fairly stock store design — generic white walls, maybe a couch, and an Instagramable neon sign for flair) — entirely devoid of personality. But I’m not sure you could mistake the coziness of this posh Bowery brick-and-mortar for an incomplete concept. Instead of an empty pale cavern with repurposed department store displays, Gotham approaches cannabis retail as a lifestyle brand, filling the entrance of their storefront with towering plants and bookshelves brimming with clothing, housewares, and various accessories including Saipua soaps, a range of specialty magazines, and items from Seth Rogen’s Houseplant line. As for the main attraction, don’t expect to be inundated with options here (especially for flower). Gotham’s menu is indeed well-curated, but also far more slender than other dispensaries in the city, opting for carefully selected products from regional cultivars over the “everything we can get our hands on” approach. And, frankly, after enduring some unnervingly long diner menus at other dispensaries, being presented only a dozen or so solid strains to pair with the issue of Broccoli tucked under my arm was kind of a relief.