Exercise science principles are applied to rock climbing.

Strength and conditioning are applied to rock climbing. 

EXER 4286

October 26, 2022

Ben Kanzigg.

The sport of rock climbing made its national debut at the 2022 Olympic Games in Tokyo. It’s now recognized as a global sport with an enormous population. Many professional athletes and weekend participants have begun flocking to local climbing gyms. The increase in competitors, athletes, and general enthusiasts opens up possibilities for Strength and Conditioning (S&C) professionals. As the sport continues to grow, many individuals will seek out information and opportunities to optimize their performance. The S&C professionals are experts in exercise science and its application in the sports world. This paper discusses the foundations of rock climbing, terminology, the history of the sport, methods of training, and guidance for the S&C professional.

Mountaineering is the first recorded rock climbing sport. Mountaineering consisted of ice and aid climbing through the use of gear and ropes and utilizing basic climbing skills. Throughout the years, athletes have evolved and begun exploring technical cliff faces. Traversing these faces required advanced climbing abilities and specific movements. In the 1950's, people travled to the Yosemite Valley and began sumiting the enormous cliffs. At the height of the 1970s, there was an influx of climbers into the valley. This generation established many climbing disciplines: traditional (trad) climbing, sport climbing, and bouldering. Sport and trad climbing utilizes rope and safety systems, allowing the climber to ascend several meters up a route. Bouldering requires a foam mat and is completed closer to the ground, no more than 15 feet high. Each discipline utilizes different metabolic pathways and training methodologies. Climbers, like all athletes, seek an advantage over their competitors. This generation had limited training knowledge; therefore, athletes created and developed methods derived from gymnastics. 

Rock climbing is a physically and mentally demanding sport. In order to achieve peak performance, climbers must optimize strength, power, endurance, flexibility, and neuromuscular control (2). Climbers and fitness professionals consider this sport a whole-body workout. Major muscle groups like the trunk, upper extremities, and lower extremities actively support a climber through a route. Utilizing adenosine triphosphate production via metabolic training, or metabolic conditioning, a climber will improve their muscular fitness (2). Bouldering employs the phosphagen and glycolytic systems due to its high intelligence demands. Blood lactate concentration will elevate as climbing intensity and duration increase (2). Climbers labeled this physiological response a “forearm pump." The forearm loses the ability to grip, causing the climber to fall off the route.  Anaerobic fitness is essential for bouldering athletes. During competitions or attempting harder routes, climbers must have adequate strength and power while delaying the lactate threshold. Coaches should keep in mind that the aerobic metabolic system aids in recovery. Understand that while completing many hours of bouldering, athletes will rely on the oxidative system for continued muscle contractions (2). Aerobic capacity has a larger effect when trekking or sport climbing. 

Trad and sport climbing utilize each metabolic pathway. These disciplines navigate longer routes compared to bouldering problems. Typically, athletes spend between two and seven minutes of continuous effort. Previous research has noted the importance of the aerobic metabolic system. This is demonstrated by the increase in heart rate and oxygen consumption during difficult climbs (2). Peak oxygen consumption during climbing is lower when compared to running and cycling (2). During a high-intensity indoor climbing session, climbers reported a lower oxygen consumption that ranged between 20 and 80% of the VO2 peak (2). Increased climbing angles impact ratings of perceived exertion (RPE) and heart rate. However, oxygen consumption and energy expenditure generally remain constant at these different inclines (2). Lactate is really low due to the small muscle mass utilized during climbing. Cardiac output is not a limiting factor in climbing performance; rather, maximal oxygen utilization of the upper extremities can impact performance. Athletes wishing to optimize performance must maximize the muscular endurance of the upper extremities.

The complex physiology of rock climbing make catagorization of the disciplines difficult.

because each discipline utilizes each metabolic system. Bouldering is mainly anaerobic, yet aerobic systems enhance recovery during rest periods. Lead climbing constantly battles the lactate threshold as climbing intensity increases. The athlete must possess a well-trained gylcolytic system, while the aerobic system provides quick rest periods on the route. Physiology is one component that coaches must consider. Climbers must develop adept cognitive abilities in order to succeed. 

Route previewing is an underestimated skill acquired by elite climbers. This skill determines the difference between success and failure. Competitors in other sports can observe their opponents performing and practicing on the competition floor; however, in the world of sport climbing, none of this is permitted (1). An athlete will fall if they misjudge a sequence never done before, which ends their performance during a competition. An essential skill is the ability to interpret route information prior to ascents. Even the strongest athletes will fail if they misjudge or incorrectly read a hold or sequence during an attempt. Route-reading is the unique ability that separates climbing from other sports. 

Energy systems and cognitive abilities are two elements that contribute to a climber's success. Another element that assists climbers during performance is finger strength. Climbers grip, grab, and squeeze a variety of hold designs. As a climber progresses through a route, they’ll encounter a variety of hold shapes and sizes. It consists of a variety of small, medium, or large edges, while others barely fit the finger tips. Climbing performance relies on the strength of the finger flexors, which strain the tendons and pulleys of the hand and fingers. Traditional methods included eccentric hangings from a device called a "hangboard." Fitness professionals have realized the negative effect this has on climbing performance. Many professionals have concluded that concentric hangs, along with veolcoty-based training, provide sport-specific stimulation. This allows the athlete to mimic the climbing strain placed on the fingers and hands while avoiding potential injuries. 

Rock climbing has gained popularity over the years because it resonates with many individuals. Climbing has always been about community and testing human potential. Everyone, from weekend warriors to elite athletes, seeks out opportunities to climb and test their limits. Working with climbers provides unique opportunities to explore and apply S&C training principles. Rock climbing sets itself apart from other sports due to its utilization of the metablic pathways. Knowledge of the evolving science behind rock climbing and it’s training ideologies will prepare future coaches. By applying the above information, climbers and athletes will improve both physical and mental performance while remaining injury free.

injury-free