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Stacey Leasca

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When it comes to the Santa Monica Pier, Jim Harris wrote the book. Or two books, actually, along with a play about how locals rallied to save what was destined to become one of the West Coast’s most beloved landmarks.

“The beach is the reason that everybody comes to California,” Harris says, “but the pier is the beacon.”

Harris should know. He started out as a bartender at the Boathouse Restaurant on the pier back in 1989, listening to stories from locals about what the area had been like in its heyday. He fell in love with the history of the place, even though, at the time, it was so rough-looking that the city was eager to tear it down.

Today, 30-plus years later, he’s executive director of the pier. His office is located above the famed carousel that sits at the neon-lighted entry leading to the carnival rides of Pacific Park. He’s right by instantly recognizable attractions like the lightning-fast West Coaster and the towering Pacific Wheel.

Jim Harris (L), Pacific Park (R)

Harris wrote the definitive history of the pier’s comeback in his book Santa Monica Pier: A Century on the Last Great Pleasure Pier, which was published just in time to celebrate its 100th birthday. But he’s also proud of his children’s book dedicated to the pier, which he co-authored with his daughter, Stella.

Stella had told her father that when she turned 8, she was going to ride the Sea Dragon, which is considered the “most terrifying ride at Pacific Park.”

But when the moment came, “you could see the fear in her eyes, so we didn't ride it,” Harris says. That evening, instead of reading bedtime stories, Harris started telling a story about a dragon that had taken over the pier and the child that would confront it, which eventually became the book Stella Rose and the Sea Dragon.

And the real Stella? She confronted her fears and rode the Sea Dragon long before she reached the ripe old age of 9.

This is from The WeekEnder series: local insider guides for new destinations throughout Southern California, delivered to your inbox twice a month. Sign up here!

Although he still finds the pier to be magical even after three decades here, Harris agrees that the rest of Santa Monica is well worth exploring.

“One of my favorite areas to visit is the Main Street Ocean Park area because it's got a small-town appeal,” Harris said. The fact that Santa Monica has real range to its attractions “that's what really makes it so special,” Harris insists.

However you spend the rest of your day, Harris says you should get back to the pier before the sun dips below the horizon. That’s when the sky is transformed into various shades of pink, purple, orange, and yellow.

“Make sure to walk all the way to the end at sunset,” Harris says. “It is always extraordinary, whether the sun is setting over Malibu during the summer or whether it's setting over the ocean in the winter. It's always an amazing view.”

In this edition of the WeekEnder, we’re reminding Angelinos about what makes Santa Monica so special. We’ll take you to all of our favorite spots to visit on a day trip, and throw in a few of the best places to stay in case you want to hang around for more than one sunset.

—Stacey Leasca, SoCal’s Senior WeekEnder Guide

Editor’s Note: Stay up to date on weather alerts.

Things to do

Explore Santa Monica from top to bottom at these local favorites.

Pacific Park

Shop local on Montana Avenue

There are other shopping areas where you can find big-name brands—we’re looking at you, Santa Monica Promenade—but when you want to support mom-and-pop businesses, stroll along Montana Avenue. The blocks between 7th and 17th streets include bookstores like Zibby’s, clothing stores like Femelle, and a few beauty brands like the Detox Market. There are also cafes, coffee shops, and a wide range of eateries.

Get creative at Bergamot Station Arts Center

The largest arts complex on the West Coast, Bergamot Station has 19 galleries filled with works in every imaginable medium. The space also hosts loads of cocktail parties, comedy shows, and live performances. And the two on-site restaurants let you fuel up for more exploring.

Montana Ave (L), Annenberg Community House (R)

Catch some rays at Annenberg Community Beach House

Feel like an A-lister—without paying A-list prices—at Annenberg Community Beach House. Located on Santa Monica Beach, this public facility on five acres of oceanfront property offers all the amenities you’d find at a private beach club. There are umbrella-shaded lounge chairs, beach volleyball courts, and even a playground for the kids. There’s a small fee for the sparkling swimming pool, but everything else is absolutely free.

See more of the shore along The Strand

The best way to experience the coastline is by renting a bike at one of the many shops along the 22-mile South Bay Bicycle Trail. Not everybody here is peddling—there are plenty of scooters, skateboards, and other vehicles sharing your lane—but even on the busiest days, there’s room for everyone. Along the way, you will often spot locals hang-gliding at Dockweiler Beach or surfing at Manhattan Beach.

See the beach from above at Pacific Park

More than 9 million people visit Pacific Park each year and with good reason: The pier is home to famed carnival rides like the Pacific Wheel, which whisks you 130 feet in the air for an epic view of the whole of Santa Monica Beach.

Where to eat

Dine alongside Santa Monicans at these neighborhood favorites.

Elephante

Start things off at Blueys

Locals often kick off their day with breakfast at Blueys, a woman-run business serving locally sourced meals. The restaurant is a visual delight, thanks to a tree growing in the center of the light-filled dining room. You can’t go wrong with the sweet squash pancakes with avocado and mint or the breakfast burrito stuffed with chorizo (either the real stuff or the meat-free version), scrambled eggs, tater tots, jalapeños, green onions, and creamy Oaxaca cheese.

Lunch with locals at Bay Cities

It may not be the fanciest establishment in Santa Monica, but Bay Cities Italian Deli and Bakery is its most beloved. Since its 1925 opening, it's stayed true to its roots. The overstuffed subs include the Godmother—the shop’s signature sandwich—with prosciutto, ham, capicola, mortadella, Genoa salami, and provolone cheese. It’s heavenly with either mild or hot peppers.

Bay Cities Italian Deli and Bakery (L), Father’s Office (R)

Catch ocean breezes at Elephante

The views from this rooftop bar and restaurant may have you imagining the coastline of Italy, the islands of Greece, or one of the tucked-away harbors along the French Riviera. After all, the dining room, handsomely designed with natural wood and stone, would be right at home anywhere on the Mediterranean. Small plates like the gulf shrimp with salsa rosa or the fried calamari with balsamic aioli are perfect for sharing. Signature cocktails like the Sundance Kid—flavored with tequila, lime, and an aperitif called Cocchi Rosa—are pure SoCal.

Grab a beer and burger at Father’s Office

A favorite neighborhood haunt since it opened in 1999, Father’s Office gets raves for its extensive beer selection. Try a brew like the Bottle Logic Order of Combat, a dry-hopped IPA with notes of pine, cedar, and blueberries. And don’t pass up the legendary Office Burger, which is topped with Gruyère and Maytag blue cheese and caramelized onions. The kitchen is famous for not allowing any changes to this or any other menu item. Whatever you do, don’t ask for ketchup.

Places to stay

Sleep next to all of Santa Monica’s favorite destinations at these hotels.

Shore Hotel

For a room with a view, Shore Hotel

Just a few steps from the Santa Monica Pier, the Shore Hotel couldn’t have a better location. What’s more, the designers have absolutely nailed Southern California cool with bright rooms filled with pops of aqua and orange. (The same colors also make the deck surrounding the swimming pool unforgettable.) While the hotel is undeniably pretty, it’s also smart—every room is equipped with thermostats and lights that turn off when you leave to conserve electricity.

For extra space, Fairmont Miramar Hotel & Bungalows

From a luxe spa to delicious dining options, the Fairmont Miramar has amenities galore. But maybe its best features are the 31 massive bungalows, all with more than enough space for the entire family. Go big or go home by booking the 2,500-square-foot Bungalow One, with three bedrooms, a fully furnished private patio, and direct access to the swimming pool.

Santa Monica Proper Hotel (L), Viceroy Santa Monica (R)

For a design-forward stay, Santa Monica Proper Hotel

A few blocks from the beach, the Santa Monica Proper is as chic as they come. Interiors by famed designer Kelly Wearstler create a beachy vibe with sand-colored everything, from the walls to the bedding to the fun and funky furnishings. Once you park yourself in one of the chaise lounges lining the rooftop pool, you might not leave until it’s time for your dinner reservation at the restaurant next door. Bikes are available for all guests, so you can head straight to the ocean or explore the beachfront trail.

For a Santa Monica classic, The Georgian Santa Monica

Known as “Santa Monica’s First Lady,” the Georgian is close to a century old, but it’s barely showing its age. Painted a hard-to-miss shade of ocean blue, the boutique hotel has interiors that are only slightly more subdued. Rooms have a modern feel, with a few Art Deco touches here and there. Many have nice views over the city skyline, but you should definitely splurge on those with a cinematic view of the beach.

For a pool day, Viceroy Santa Monica

The Viceroy has one of the most inviting pools in town, so you may never feel the need to walk the few blocks to the beach. The colorful poolside cabanas are served by a full waitstaff that will hook you up with Wi-Fi or Champagne, depending on your needs. Overlooking the pool is a spectacular restaurant where you can opt for a table in the quiet dining room or outside on the lively terrace. And the multi-room suites come in handy if you’re traveling in a group.

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