This Hidden Sicilian Town Runs on Pistachios
Maria Salvati
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Pistachios are the green gold of Sicily. Which makes Bronte, a gem of a town nestled between Catania and the slopes of Mount Etna, the green gold mine of Sicily. Its medieval scenery is dotted with cobblestone streets and stony terrain, but it’s what falls from the thin branches of the countless pistachio trees whose roots manage to poke through the black lava rocks that define the area.
Locals make and sell la filetta (pie with sugar, eggs, flour, and pistachios), handmade pasta with pistachio flour (which is sweeter than regular pasta), pistachio arancini (rice balls covered in a crispy shell that gives way to a creamy interior where pistachio-infused risotto cradles molten cheese), and brioche with pistachio granita (a pastry that melts into a pool of pistachio perfection, sending waves of cool sweetness tinged with nutty undertones).
“This is absolutely the Pistachio Motherland—it’s a huge part of the richness of Sicily as what grows here has a unique taste,” explains Laura Lupo, owner of A’ Ricchigia, a well-known agricultural company that makes pistachios its literal business.
“Recognizing the Bronte pistachio isn’t easy if you’re inexperienced, as they look so much like generic pistachios at first glance,” says Giuseppe, a self-employed farmer and agronomist. “But just look at the shape and color. If the grains are elongated and the color includes bright green and purple shades, it’s original. This particularity derives from the place in which it was grown, rich in minerals such as silica, iron, and manganese just like the Etna volcano can be. On the other hand, common pistachios (from Greece, Türkiye, or nearby Sicilian regions) will look more rounded and dark green.”
The origins of the pistachio in Italy date back to the 8th century, when the Arabs conquered Sicily and started planting thousands of seeds in Agrigento and Caltanissetta, mainly to be eaten as snacks or transformed into grains to garnish the desserts of the time—namely, baklava and kunafa. But they soon found that the soil surrounding Etna was more fertile thanks to the volcanic activity and the temperature reaching 68 degree Fahrenheit, making the nearby Bronte the perfect place for these types of crops.
Today, explains Lucio, an agriculture expert, the pistachios are “harvested only by hand with bags tied around the neck, because no mechanical means can reach the flow of cooled volcanic lava. Plus, they’re very delicate, and this doesn’t interrupt the work to empty the hands or put the pistachios in a separate container, thus having more agility in reaching the higher ones.”
Bronte and its pistachios gained their international fame in the 1940s thanks to James W. Parkinson. He was a passionate Philadelphia ice cream maker by trade, who, after years of study had learned about Bronte and its particular cultivation of pistachio, and felt the need to give it a “new life” as an export to the United States. After multiple experiments, he later invented pistachio ice cream, completely made with ingredients from Sicily.
These days, Parkinson’s pistachio ice cream tradition continues in Bronte at Pasticceria F.lli Gangi, Yogurtlandia-Bronte, Pasticceria Maestri del Pistacchio, and Bar Conti Gallenti, where you can even take workshops in how to make pistachio-flavored dessert treats for yourself, such as ice cream, frozen yogurt, or a traditional Italian pastry named pastarella. Meanwhile, local restaurants like Pepe Rosa and La Vita offer homemade bruschetta, scallops, risotto, pasta, and sweet treats—all garnished with Bronte PDO Pistachio cream, grains, or seeds. (If you don’t plan to be in Sicily anytime soon, you can order Bronte-born pistachios directly from Vincente Delicacies official e-commerce site.) Outside of the city, guided tours are available at pistachio farms, where you can get a glimpse into the meticulous techniques employed by their farmers, their hands working in harmony with the land to nurture these precious green gems.
September is the best time to visit Bronte, as that’s when the so-called “Pistachio Festival” takes place. During it, the main square is transformed into a bustling hub of excitement and merriment, pulsating with the rhythm of live music and the aroma of pistachio-infused delights. From heaping jars of velvety pistachio pesto to decadent stuffed panettone bursting with nutty goodness, every bite is a celebration of the pistachio in all its glory.
It is nothing short of a green gold rush.